Melasma is more complex than excess surface pigment alone. Several processes can be involved, and their relative contribution differs from one person to the next.
Increased Melanin Production
Pigment-producing cells in melasma-affected skin tend to be more active, releasing more melanin into the surrounding skin.
Ultraviolet and Visible Light
Sunlight is the strongest external driver. Ultraviolet light stimulates pigment production, and visible light, including daylight and the light from screens, can also worsen melasma, particularly in richer skin tones.
Genetic Susceptibility
Melasma often runs in families, suggesting that inherited differences in how the skin responds to light and other triggers can increase a person’s susceptibility.
Hormonal Influences
Hormonal changes during pregnancy and the use of some hormone-containing medications, including oral contraceptives, can trigger melasma in susceptible individuals.
Chronic Sun-Related Skin Changes
Long-term sun exposure can alter the skin’s supporting tissue and the boundary between its outer and deeper layers, changes that may help sustain melasma.
Inflammation and Skin-Barrier Disruption
Studies have identified inflammatory signalling and altered skin-barrier function in melasma-affected skin, although their precise roles in the condition are still being investigated.
Vascular Changes Within Affected Skin
Some melasma patches have increased numbers or prominence of small blood vessels, and signals from these vessels may contribute to pigment-cell activity.
Irritation From Unsuitable Products or Procedures
Skincare products or procedures that irritate the skin can worsen pigmentation or cause additional post-inflammatory darkening, making careful product selection and treatment planning important.
Because melasma can resemble other pigmentation conditions, a professional assessment helps confirm the diagnosis and guide appropriate treatment and at-home skincare.
References and Further Reading